Machalilla NP, Ecuador


In March 2022, my buddy Mike Stevens and I were trekking across Ecuador when we decided to explore the western coast, near Puerto Lopez. Particularly, we were interested in exploring the Machalilla National Park, just outside of Puerto Lopez.

Our trekking map of Ecuador in March of 2022.

Puerto Lopez is about 200 km northwest of the major city of Guayaquil, Ecuador. We first drove our car rental to Jipijapa from Guayaquil, then took the coastal road south to Puerto Lopez.

Coastal road map from Jipijapa to Puerto Lopez and the Machalilla National Park; (Image is a Public Domain Map)

Imaged above, Machalilla has it all; dry forest, moist forest, sandy beaches, offshore bird-rich islands, coral-rich ocean, and splendid archaeological sites.

Looking north towards “Punta Cerro Viejo” north of Machelilla, Ecuador 2022

Coastal scrub forest once covered 25% of western Ecuador, but is now down to 1%, most of which is located here at Machalilla, (pictured above).

Looking west into the Pacific Ocean, north of Machililla 2022

Pictured below, Playa Los Frailes is one of the most pristine beaches in the country.  It is characterized by fine soft sand, crystal clear blue waters, and nestled amongst rolling hills.  A portion of this tremendous beach is quarantined off by cliffs to protect breeding and nesting sea turtles.

Part of the “Playa Los Frailes” near the Machalilla National Park 2022; (looking north)

Pictured below, Puerto Lopez is the Machalilla National Park headquarters. The main industries include fishing and ecotourism.

Looking south along the Ecuadorian Beach at Puerto Lopez 2022

Pictured below, we stayed in Puerto Lopez, on the street closest to the beach, which had many restaurants, and cabanas that provided drinks. Fishing is an important activity in Puerto Lopez. In local waters there are Amberjack, dolphin, wahoo, marlin, and tuna of many different species.

Sun down on the Puerto Lopez Beach near Mackalilla National Park 2022

Picture below, Agua Blanca is located 5 kilometers north of Puerto Lopez; the commune maintains an archaeological museum with pieces of the Manteno – Huancavilca culture.

I’m standing next to the sign at the entrance to the Agua Blanca village within the Machalilla National Park in Ecuador 2022.

Picture below, in the Agua Blanca Museum, the famous stone chairs or power chairs have been found, which is why archaeologists consider that one of their civic ceremonial centers functioned here.

Stone chairs found within the Agua Blanca Museum at the Machalilla National Park 2022

Pictured above and below, the stone seats have been found at the most important Manteno settlements such as Agua Blanca (Salangome), and at ceremonial centers including cerro Jaboncillo and Cerro de Hojas. At Agua Blanca they were located in the largest buildings which suggests that they wrved as “seats of power” for the principal chiefs.

An artists depiction of a Manteno chief sitting on one of the stone seats found at Agua Blanca, Ecuador 2022.

Agua Blanca one of the oldest archeological sites in South America, in the heart of the Machalilla National Park in Ecuador, on the remains of the Manteno culture’s pre-Columbian period. It is a mix of natural wonder, culture, and archeology. A set of temples, houses, and plazas typical of the Manteno culture, as well as archeological items and skulls, can be found on this site dating from 1500 BC, (pictured below).

“Mortar and Pestal” (used to mash and grind coca brought from Bolivia. Head chiefs of shamans used this in ceremonies), found at the Agua Blanca archaeological zone 2022.
“Manoplas” (weapons for personal defense or hunting), found at the Agua Blanca archaeological zone 2022.
“Stamps”, (used to differentiate people, mostly shamans or chiefs for their skin and sometimes told which family they came from with the unique design), found at the Agua Blanca archaeological zone 2022.

Pictured below, spondylus shells, a symbol of prestige, were used as payment in trading. Its inhabitants dominated the art of navigation and maintained commercial relations with other indigenous cultures along the coast of South America, as far north as Mexico and south to from Chile.

Necklaces of shells, (used as money) found at the Agua Blanca Archaeological zone 2022.

Pictured below, a “Funeral Urn” constitute the tangible, visual, ritual and religious memory that the inhabitants of the Manta culture used to bury their dead, which are located 100 meters from the community center and museum.

A “Funeral Urn” in the museum found at the Agua Blanca archaeological zone 2022.
A “Funeral Urn” in the museum found at the Agua Blanca archaeological zone 2022.
A half buried “Funeral Urn” found at the Agua Blanca archaeological zone 2022
A completely buried “Funeral Urn” found at the Agua Blanca archaeological zone 2022; [Note the rim of the Urn at the bottom of the picture]

Pictured below, the remains of this fascinating native past are found in more than 500 archaeological sites along the Julcuy Valley. They include very ancient cultures, predecessors of the Manteno-Huancavilca (500 B.C.-1532 AD), such as: Bay, Chorrera, Machalilla and Valdivia. The latter is considered the oldest in South America (2600-1650 B.C.).

Some of the archaeological remains found onsite at the Agua Blanca village within the Machililla National Park 2022.

Pictured below, a natural sulfur lagoon can also be found on the Agua Blanca site and is accessible by tourists such as Mike and I. However, we chose not to take a dip.

Entrance sign found at the “Lagoon at Agua Blanca” within the Machalilla National Park 2022

Pictured below, it is said the mineral waters and muds in the “Laguna de Agua Sulfurosa” can help the skin and wellbeing of visitors.

The “Lagoon at Agua Blanca” within the Machalilla National Park 2022

Pictured below, the Machalilla National Park has the the Cordillera Chongón-Colonche Mountain Range running through it. It is a coastal mountainous range that rose during the Oligocene (36 million years ago) in the Guayas Province and extends through the Manabí Province.

The Cordillera Chongón-Colonche Mountain Range within the Machalilla National Park in Ecuador 2022

The distance from the Cordillera Chongón-Colonche Mountain Range to the coast is very short and as a result, there are only very small watersheds with just seasonal creeks. Pictured below, appears to be an Iron-stained mid-Tertiary shale and pyro-clastic flow deposits.

An iron-stained sedimentary deposit found in the Cordillera Chongón-Colonche Mountain Range of Machalilla National Park close to Agua Blanca, Equador.

With climates ranging from semi-desert along the coast to semi-humid at the higher elevations, the rainfall varies from 161 – 1,120 mm, while showing great  yearly fluctuations. The average annual temperature fluctuates between 23.5 – 24.5 ° C along the coast.

The Machalilla National Park foothills of the Chongón-Colonche Mountain Range in Ecuador 2022; (notice the moist-forest sub-tropical plant life within the “Cloud Forest Zone”).

During most of the year, the dominating cold Humboldt current from the South causes very low rainfall, while the warm current from the North, makes the relative humidity rise, resulting in increased rainfall during the rainy season.

The Machalilla National Park; (note the tropical arid forest transition zone of the lower elevation) 2022.

There are two differences climates zones: tropical arid, from the mouth of the Buena Vista river, to subtropical in the hills higher up in the hills of Perro Muerto and Punta Alta, (pictured above and below).

The Buenavista River Valley near Agua Blanca within the Machalilla National Park 2022, [looking southwest]
The Buenavista River Valley near Agua Blanca within the Machalilla National Park 2022 [looking west]
The Buenavista River Valley near Agua Blanca within the Machalilla National Park 2022 [looking northwest]

Pictured above and below, the scrub desert vegetation within the Machalilla National Park includes Opuntia cactus, algaroba trees, kapok trees, and palo santo trees.

The Buenavista River Valley near Agua Blanca within the Machalilla National Park 2022

The varied habitats of the scrub desert, dry forests, and fog forests give way to various wildlife that calls the park home. Birdwatching is one of the park’s common attractions, with over 270 species of birds migrating or nesting in the dry forest.  The Peruvian screech owl, toucan, Golden-olive woodpecker, green macaw, weaver and the whooping motmot are some of the coveted sightings.

A Kapok tree with a multitude of “Weaver” bird nests found within the Machalilla National Park near Agua Blanca, Ecuador 2022.

We would like to have seen the armadillos, iguanas, and monkeys that are scattered across the area, but no luck, while we were there.