In March of 2023, I had the opportunity to trek a couple of days in Maputaland or Zululand. Crossing the Tugela River, (88 kilometers north of Durbon, South Africa), traditionally the southern frontier of Zululand, it felt like I had entered into an entirely new province.

Passing a largely poor, rural population through KwaZulu-Natal’s reserves and coastal wetlands, I found myself traveling in the ancestral lands of the Zulu, and the designated Zulu “homeland” prior to 1994.

Imaged above, home of the Tsonga and Mabudu peoples, the northeastern corner of KwaZulu-Natal is the most remote part of the province, with large tracts accessible only by four-wheel-drive vehicles. Combined with the total ban on vehicles on the beach and outboard motors at sea, this inaccessibility has protected it from development, and the coastline is absolutely pristine, (however we approached the area on the Pongolapoort Dam/Jozini/Kwangwanase paved road).

Our first destination, the Kosi Bay Reserve was about 15 km northeast of Kwangwanase via dirt road.

Pictured above, stretching 18 kilometers, Kosi Bay consists of four lakes, (Amanzimnyama, Nhlange, Mpungwini and Makhawulani) and a series of interconnecting channels, which drain via a long sandy estuary into the Indian Ocean. The Kosi Bay system is one of the most beautiful and pristine lake systems on the African coast.

Near the border with Mozambique, Kosi Bay lies in a unique area of huge biological importance, (imaged above). It is a stunning mosaic of lakes and rivers, swamps and wet forests, that forms the most pristine river and lake system on the African coastline.

The Kosi Bay Reserve is home to great diversity of animals, birds and plants. Near the “Camp”, for example, the mangrove area features five different species of mangrove, (pictured below).

Pictured above, the “Swamp Fig” Moraceae ficu trichopoda are evergreen and have milky or watery latex present.  The simple Leaves are alternate or opposite and usually distinctly 3-veined from near the base.  They are usually entire and all leaves have stipules.   Plants are monoecious or dioecious and flowers are unisexual. This is a protected Tree in the South Africa, occurring near water – including swamps and in high rainfall areas like riverine forests.  Clumps of trees may develop.  These trees are located in KwaZulu-Natal North Coast.

In the distance, you can see Lagoon Hibiscus Malraceae hibiscus tilaceus. It is a large, stout, open-branched shrub or small tree with spreading branches. It grows to a height of 3-6 m. Stems long and flexible. Large dark green simple leaves are heart-shaped to almost circular, or broader than long, 30-150 mm in diameter or larger; 5- to 9-veined from the base, veins prominent, each of the main veins with a slit or elongated gland near the base.

The Bay is noted for its aggressive bull shark population. The sharks are locally known as zambesi sharks. Whale sharks and manta rays also visit the area. Whale watching to target mainly humpback whales and dolphins is a growing industry in Kosi Bay region.

The Raphia palm (Raphia australis) also known as the Raffia Palm or Kosi Palm, is the largest palm in the world and one of only six species of palm trees that are indigenous to South Africa. They reach impressive heights of up to 25 meters, with leaves that are some of the largest in the entire plant kingdom. The fruits of the Raphia palm are found in the highest reaches of the tree and are covered with razor sharp leaves and spines making them difficult to reach and the special domain of the aptly named Palm-nut Vulture, which can regularly be seen in the treetops. The Raphia palm forests of Kosi Bay are absolutely unique in Southern Africa and as a result, attract the largest population of Palm-nut Vultures in the world.

The proud amaZulu have fascinated westerners ever since the first part of British settlers gained permission to trade from the great Zulu king Shaka, known as “Africa’s Napoleon” for his mightiest army in the Southern Hemisphere and develop better fighting implements and tactics, including the highly successful “hors of the bull” maneuver to outflank the enemy. In 1828, Shaka was murdered by his half-brothers Mhlangana and Dingaan, and Dingaan was crowned king. {Note: In 1840, Dingaan was killed by his brother Mpande, who succeeded him as king}.

The coastline here at Kosi Bay is one of the main breeding sites for sea turtles in South Africa, (in December), and January loggerhead and leatherback turtles come onto the beaches to lay their eggs. During the winter humpback whales pass the Kosi Bay coast on their northern migratory route.

We drove 8 kilometers north from the Kosi Camp where one of the most impressive views in the country overlooks Kosi Bay (in reality an estuary), laced with intricate Tsonga fish traps and unchanged for centuries.

Turning back from the Kosi Bay Viewpoint, we could see each of Kosi’s four lakes, linked by narrow channels, extending inland from some 20 km, (pictured above). This section of iSimangaliso is a rich tapestry of lakes, has been described as the last haven of untouched African paradise.

In terms of fanua, Kosi Bay is home to the unusual two-armed mudskipper fish and the one-armed fiddler crab, as well as over 200 species of tropical fish; crocodiles and hippopotamuses can also be seen.

The Kosi Bay Estuary is a wonderland of blue sea and dazzling white beaches, wetlands and lakes and reed channels, raffia palm forests and mangrove swamps.

Pictured above, Kosi Bay is the cultural capital of the ancient Tsonga Tembe kingdom. This is the original and natural home of the Tsonga people and their primitive fish traps that were established centuries ago.

The Tsonga people, who have made this land their home for more than 1000 years, are experts in fish traps and the construction of fish-draal. Kosi Bay and Maputo Bay can be considered one land-area, traditionally belonging to the Tsonga people with the history of Vatsonga people on the land dating back some 1000 years.

Pictured above, the lake system has historically been a very significant source of food and livelihood for the communities harvest a range of inter-tidal resources such as mussels, chitons, sea cucumbers, sea weed and octopus as well as sandy shore organisms such as ghost and mole crabs whilst men fish for various line fish species. Marine resources form the material basis of the culture of these communities. They also harvest marine resources for medicine as well as using them in a range of cultural rituals. In their system of customary tenure, fishing rights are held by individuals but are nested with a community system of common property ownership.

Pictured above, the wild ‘Green Apple’ Monodora junodii tree is a multi-stemmed, deciduous, slender plant with long, thin, supple branches. The bark was dark greyish brown and smooth. The leaves were exceptionally gloss, bright green, oblanceolate to nearly elliptic, up to 150 mm long and borne alternately. The fruit was reminiscent of the custard-apple, they were nearly spherical, dark green, mottled with white and up to 70 mm in diameter.

The next morning, my trekking partner, (Mike Stevens) and I traveled south into the “Greater St. Lucia Wetland Park”. The St. Lucia Wetland Park on the eastern coast of KwaZulu-Natal stretches from Kosi Bay in the north to Cape St. Lucia in the south. The park, (the first in South Africa to be declared a World Heritage Site), comprises a huge lagoon-estuary running parallel to the coast. Massive forested sand dunes, (the world’s highest), prevent the Mkuze River from reaching the sea. The river is forced southward, creating the 60 km long Lake St. Lucia. With its location between subtropical and tropical Africa, the park incorporates an astonishing variety of habitats, ranging from the Ubombo Mountains to saline swamps and salt marshes.

Pictured above, with rolling hills topped with grass separated by steep valleys lined with forest, the best savanna country in South Africa lies between the Ubombo Mountains, (in the east) and the Mkuze River, (in the west), and it was here that sparked my interest to explore.

uMkhuze Game Reserve constitutes the north western spur of the Greater St Lucia Wetland Park a recently declared World Heritage Site. The Mkhuze River curves along the reserve’s northern and eastern borders with a fine stretch of fig forest along its bank.

The uMkhuze Game Preserve is a place of great beauty and high contrasts and is renowned as a mecca for bird watchers with a bird list well in excess of four hundred, (pictured below).

Pictured above, is a flock of Coqui Francolin Peiperdix coqui on the road near the Mantuma Camp. The male has a golden brown head and neck with a darker crown. The female has white eyebrows, and a white throat, outlined in black. Both sexes have heavily barred black and white bellies. A secretive bird with a crouched walk.

Pictured above, the uMkhuze Game Reserve has an astonishing diversity of natural habitats, from the eastern slopes of the Ubombo mountains along its eastern boundary, to broad stretches of acacia savannah, swamps and a variety of woodlands and riverine forest.

Pictured above, looking east into the kuDiza Pan, we see a flock of grey brown Hadeda Ibis Bostrychia hagedash with a green sheen on the wings. Their long dark bill has a red ridge on top. The characteristic “Ha-ha-hadeda” call is loud and when disturbed.

Pictured above, on the road between the Mantuma Camp and the kuDiza Pan is a large number of large Leopard Tortoises with domed carapaces or shells. The shell of young animals is yellow with black spots, becoming darker and more streaked and blotched black with age. They usually live for 30 years, possibly up to 75 years.

The low lying hollows adjacent to red sand dunes contain attractive groves of scented thorn which grow in clay soils. There is a substantial and rare sand forest found in the heart of the reserve, a habitat noted for its dark-leafed, wide spreading sherbert tree, and the red heart tree. We found a large number of Tremolo Sand Frog Tomopterma cryptotis near the road.

Pictured above, immortalized by Rudyard Kipling in The Elephant’s Child, “to the banks of the great, green greasy Limpopo River all set about with fever trees”. The fever tree is a species of acacia that flourishes in swampy areas in the Lowveld areas of northwest South Africa and southeast Zimbabwe.

Pictured above, the fever tree’s bright yellow bark may account for its name, as malaria sufferers often turned yellow. However, it is more likely that the name was derived from the swampy areas where the trees are found, (an ideal breeding ground for malarial mosquitoes, during the summer).

Pictured above, The bright yellow trunks create a surreal effect. One of the best places to see them is at the large forest in the Mkuze Game Reserve, South Africa. Here a boardwalk had been constructed to enable visitors to cross the wetter sections of this swampy habitat.

This diversity of habitats means a wide variety of animal species including black and white rhinoceros, elephant, giraffe, nyala, blue wildebeest, warthog, eland, hippo, impala, kudu and other smaller antelope.

Pictured above, the Common Warthog Phacochoerus africanus is grey with little body hair. The males have longer canine teeth and two pairs of warts. The tail is held up while running. They live in family groups and graze while standing or kneeling. Grunting and squealing are the most common vocalization.

Pictured above, A group of Giraffes Giraffe camelopardalis on the road after a rainstorm that are unmistakable with its long legs and neck. The brown patches on the male’s body darken with age. Both sexes have two short horns. They form herds, but individuals wander between herds.

Pictured above, a herd of Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus appeared in a brief rainstorm. We noticed that the animals seems to gravitate to the road when it rains. These blue-grey cattle-like animals had dark vertical stripes on the neck and tail. Bothe sexes have horns, but the males are larger.

Pictured above, are Nyala Tragelaphus angasii in the grass at the iNsumo Pan. The males are dark brown with a white mark between the eyes. They have long hair hanging from their bellies, white-tipped mane and yellow-brown ‘socks’. Males have horns. Females are reddish in color and smaller.

Pictured above, is a herd of Crested Guineafowl Guttera edouardi on the road near the Bube River. The curly black feathers on the crown distinguish it from the Helmeted Guineafowl. It has red eyes, and a black neck and body with white spots. They seem to prefer very dense vegetation and is therefore confined to the Pafuri area.

Pictured above, the Chacma Baboon Papio ursinus on the road has an elongated face, long legs and tail. They usually live in troops that have a distinct hierarchy. The male is larger and more aggressive than the female. Omnivorous.

Pictured above, a couple of Greater Blue-eared Starlings Lamprotornis chalybaeus are found near the road at the Mantuma Camp. The dark ear patches behind the eyes and royal blue on the belly and flanks, distinguishes it from the Cape Glossy Starling. On the upper wings are two rows of dark spots.

At the uMkhuze Game Reserves, the thick dense bush, grasslands, and pans give one a feeling of being in the true Africa of yesterday. uMkuze Game Reserve was proclaimed in 1912 and has since remained under the protection of KZN Wildlife.